As from 1 September 2025, the European Union prohibits the use of OPT in cosmetics, particularly in semi-permanent varnishes. This new standard marks a step forward in the fight for more responsible beauty and victory for Manucurist which has always excluded the hazardous components from these formulae.
To be noted:
- As from 1 September 2025, the European Union prohibits OPT in all cosmetic products (Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009).
- TPO (Trimethylbenzoyl Diphenylphosphine Oxide) is the photo-initiator that ensures polymerization of semi-permanent varnishes under UV/LED lamp.
- In May 2025, the OPT was reclassified as CMR 1B — a proven reproductive toxic — by Regulation No 2025/977 ("Omnibus VII").
- Manucurist excluded the TPO from its formulae from the design of the varnish Green Flash™ , long before it was banned.
- The chosen alternative, TPO-L, is an effective photo-initiator, non-toxic and unclassified CMR.
What is the OPT and why is it so controversial?
A key component of semi-permanent varnishes
The TPO, or Trimethylbenzoyl Diphenylphosphine Oxide, is a photo-initiator widely used in cosmetics, especially in the composition of semi-permanent varnishes. It is thanks to him that the polymerization of the varnishWhen you switch it under UV or LED lamps. A magic ingredient that allows you to obtain a fast drying and this famous hard and resistant film on nail which made the success of the semi-permanent varnish.
TPO, an effective ingredient but not without danger.
A substance classified as CMR for several years
While its chemical properties make the cosmetic industry happy, the TPO also has a much less glorious hidden face. Since 2019, it has been classified at European level as CMR substances, i.e. chemicals which have, in the medium or long term, been classified as CMR substances. carcinogenic, mutagenic or reproductively toxic effects. Until 2025, he was found in the Category CMR 2, which means that he was only suspected of being toxic to human reproduction. Its use under conditions (maximum concentration of 5%) was therefore permitted.
Towards a European ban in 2025
In May 2025, the European Union decided to pass the OPT on to the Category CMR 1B. It is now considered to be proven reproductive toxic (Regulation No 2025/977, known as "Omnibus VII". The consequences have not been long since the European authorities decided todefinitively prohibit OPT in cosmetics from 1 September 2025 (Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009). From that date, it will no longer be possible to:
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placing on the market cosmetic products containing OPT,
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make these products available, including to professionals,
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use these products, particularly in the context of professional services (painting, manicure, etc.)
If it is not a surprise, this ban is nevertheless a great victory in the eyes of Gaëlle Lebrat-Personnaz, founder of the Manucurist , which has long been fighting to offer non-toxic varnish formulas: We're right to lead him. For yes, the varnish without TPO exists and Manucurist is one of the pioneer brands in this field.
Gaëlle Lebrat-Personnaz, CEO and founder of Manucurist .
TPO-free varnishes: more responsible formulas
How to replace the TPO in semi-permanent varnish?
The search for alternatives to replace hazardous ingredients is a real credo at Manucurist . From the design phase of what will become the LED varnish Green Flash™, on TPO was excluded from the formula, just like the Other substances classified as CMR (toluene, DBP, formaldehyde, hydroquinone, etc.) or HEMA and di-HEMA. This is even before these substances are banned or strictly regulated by the European authorities.
To replace the OPT, our laboratory has chosen a safe and efficient alternative: the TPO-L, another effective photo-initiator, non-toxic and not classified CMR, fully in line with the requirements of European regulations. It allows for optimum polymerization of Green Flash™ varnish under LED lamp, guaranteeing both the quality of the result and the safety for users.
To sum up:
- The TPO is a photo-initiator widely used in semi-permanent varnishes: it allows quick drying under lamp and the formation of the hard film characteristic of the semi-permanent.
- Ranked CMR 2 since 2019, it was tolerated up to a maximum concentration of 5%.
- In May 2025, the EU passed it to CMR 1B (retroduced toxic for reproduction) via Regulation No 2025/977.
- The prohibition, effective 1 September 2025, covers three uses: placing on the market, making available (including to professionals) and use in delivery (laying, manicure).
In the laboratory where the varnish formulae are concocted Manucurist .
Green Flash™ , semi-permanent varnish without compromise
By choosing Green Flash™ , you opt for a nail polish New Generation which ensures you a manicure without risk for your nails and without compromise on performance. This requires different commitments:
🌿 A formula of bio-based varnishes up to 84% This approach aims to replace synthetic chemical ingredients with plant alternatives as much as possible in order to provide a biodegradable product and a more løong-friendly composition.
🐶 A vegan varnish : like all products Manucurist , Green Flash™ contains no ingredients of animal origin and is certified by The Vegan Society.
💅 Fast and safe laying and disposal : Green Flash™ is the perfect demonstration that a bio-sourced varnish keeps fluidity, plasticity and can dry quickly under LED lamp. The same applies to the deposit which, thanks to the Sweet solvent Green Flash ™, is done in 1 minute without damaging the nails.
⏳ Impeccable outfit up to 12 days The KeraHCE+ patented technology contained in the Base Vitamin Coat which strengthens the nails at each pose and prolongs the hold of the varnish.
At Manucurist We are constantly innovative in offering quality products that respect the health of those who use them. Transparency in our formulas is fundamental to maintaining the confidence that many consumers and professionals around the world have in us. And we want it to last a long time!!
To sum up:
- Manucurist is one of the pioneer brands of semi-permanent varnish without TPO, having also ruled out from the origin toluene, DBP, formaldehyde, hydroquinone, HEMA and di-HEMA.
- The TPO is replaced by the TPO-L, which guarantees optimum polymerization of the Green Flash™ under LED lamp, without risk to the user.
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The varnish Green Flash™ based on four commitments: bio-based formula up to 84%, vegan certification, quick and safe laying and removal (deposit in 1 minute with the soft solvent), and held up to 12 days or 21 days with the Top Coat Xtrem Flash™ .
