At Manucurist We assume that an informed consumer is an informed and safe consumer! You may have heard of this, especially if you read the British press: many semi-permanents cause allergies, mainly because they contain HEMA or any other methylacrylate monomer of the same type.
Don't worry, it's not the case with the formula Green flash™ - which is not sensitizing. You are explained in detail why it is the ideal and safe alternative to traditional semi-permanents.
As you know, the nail polish Manucurist and more specifically our LED varnish Green Flash has always been formulated without HEMA, or any other methacrylate monomer - which makes it the ideal non-sensitizing alternative for semi-permanents - whether for use at home or in manicure salon.
Born in an institute and aware of the issues associated with multiple exhibitions of professionals and consumers, Manucurist place health at the centre of its priorities. We challenge ourselves every day to offer products that are respectful of your health and the environment.
That is why we have banned from our formulas any controversial molecule, and in particular methacrylate monomers, pointed to by a recent BBC article and have been challenged by many institutions for several years.*
If you read the British media, you may have seen the warning from the British Dermatologists Association that it is warning against semi-permanent gels based on d-acrylate monomers and methacrylates and their allergenic potential. The most well-known representative of these molecules is the HEMAThe Commission has already been restricted in Europe, but unfortunately it is not the only one at issue.
What's a monomer?
And why is it allergizing?
Monomers are very small chemical molecules.
Very reactive, they can easily combine with other molecules, especially other monomers, to create larger molecular chains called polymers. The "Mono" prefix indicates a unit and "Poly" means several units; A polymer is therefore made up of many monomers grouped together.
The high reactivity of monomers - especially monomers in the chemical family acrylates - is problematic when they come into contact with the skin. They are so small that they can cross the skin barrier and reach the epidermis cells, with which they interact, which can trigger a more or less violent reaction of our immune system - especially in the form of d-allergic.
Since monomers are also highly volatile, they can enter the respiratory mucosa and cause asthma in people who are frequently exposed to them.
Monomers of (methyl)acrylates are known to enter the epidermis and cause many health problems such as:
- Irritation of the eyes of the skin, mucous membranes
- Allergic type dermatitis
- Asthma
- Generalised inflammatory reactions
What are the monomers for in semi-permanent?
What is commonly called semi-permanent
Hang on, we'll explain...
Monomers already very reactive on their own in the formula of the liquid seed, are even more so when activated by UV light. Thanks to the photo-initiators also contained in the semi-permanent formulas and the light of UV lamps, monomers will be able to bind together to create longer chains called polymers (alias: the plastic film mentioned above). This is called a polymerization (or catalysis) reaction.
You okay? You still following?
The plastic film is created almost instantly and becomes very resistant, which is why semi-permanent gels dry instantly and go from a liquid formula to a gel-lacquer finish in just a few minutes.
When a gel formula contains monomers, the resulting polymer has what is called an extremely high cross-linking density => This means that the film becomes extremely hard and resistant. For this reason, most traditional semi-permanents are very difficult to remove, require acetone to dissolve them and often associated sanding.
Second problem: small monomers that have not reacted under the UV lamp may still enter the skin if exposed to it and cause skin irritation or allergic reactions.
About HEMA & other Methacrylates?
HEMA (or hydroxyethyl methacrylate) is a monomer commonly used in semi-permanents for its highly reactive properties: it drys quickly and has the ability to create solid and flexible polymer films on nails.
For its adhesive properties, it is also found in the composition of products used in other sectors than nailing: plastics, dentistry, printing... where it is also known for the risks of allergy it causes.
Since 2021, the European legislation prohibits the sale to individuals of nail products containing HEMA or Di-HEMA-TMHLC. Only manicure professionals are authorized to use them in institutes by taking protective measures (nitrile gloves, aspiring tables, masks...). In fact, legislators have considered that semi-permanents laid by professionals are less likely to come into contact with the skin if they are applied with precise technical gestures.
The problem is that the risk remains and that professionals remain exposed to these types of molecules.
- Not only that HEMA and DI-HEMA-TMHDC are not the only methacrylate monomers that can be found in semi-permanents: isobornyl acrylate (IBOA), Benzyl Methacrylate or Bis(methacryloyloxyethyl)phosphate are also substances of the same family that can now be found in the composition of new gels of semi-permanent sometimes even stamped
Moreover, it is still very easy for individuals to obtain semi-sensitizing gels via the Internet.
Alternative Green Flash - Without METHACRYLATE MONOMERY
In the event of a two-year delay in European regulation, Green flash displays since its release in 2019, a monomer-free formulation of (methyl)acrylates with sensitizing potential.
This desire to develop a clean, green and bio-based formulation has always been paramount in Manucurist to stop exposing consumers, such as professionals, to health-toxic products and environments.
At the time, the problem posed by monomers of (methyl)acrylates was not new, since from 2017 a recommendation of theAnses (National Food, Environment and Labour Safety Agency) recommended that manufacturers substitute these molecules for nail products.
After a long month of research and development, we created Green Flash : 1st LED varnish & 1st alternative clean, bio-sourced and without monomer. That is: without HEMA, di-HEMA-TMDHC and no other methyl-acrylate monomer 🎉
Instead, our formulas contain copolymers, which are larger chains of molecules that retain the same UV-light polymerization capabilities and the same advantages (fast drying, resistance, durability, flexibility), but without adverse effects.
Less reactive, non-volatile and non-sensitizing, our copolymeres are also far too big to cross the skin barrier! In addition, the polymer type (alias: gel effect film) obtained after passing under LED lamp has a lower cross-link density than that of a polymer formed from monomers; That's why Green Flash withdraws much easier than a semi, with a mild solvent WITHOUT ACETONE and without damaging the nails!
If you look more closely at our formulation and list of ingredients, you can read names of molecules that may cause confusion. Don't panic, and don't risk it. That is why:
-
hydroxyethyl acrylate/IPDI/PPG-15 glyceryl ether copolymer
This ingredient is a synthetic polymer composed of three different molecules that react together. It acts as a film agent in our formula, which is very important to offer features such as flexibility, hold and quick drying. Although it contains the word "acrylate", it is a completely different molecule from methacrylate and there is no reason to worry. From a chemical point of view, the molecule is non-sensitizing, less reactive, non-volatile and cannot penetrate the skin or trigger an allergic reaction. -
bis-HEMA poly(1.4-butanediol)-9/IPDI copolymer
This molecule is also a synthetic polymer derived from the chemical combination three different molecules. It acts as a film-gene offering flexibility, durability and fast drying. Although it contains the word "HEMA", it is a different molecule with different properties, notably because it is non-sensitizing, less reactive, non-volatile and cannot penetrate the skin.
Each of these two molecules is necessary to our formula, as they replace harmful monomers as building elements to form a polymer film. These ingredients are the origin of the 的gels aspect of your Greenflash manicures, its strength, its shine and its long-lasting hold up to 10 days. To test this alternative at home, the starter kit Green Flash™ brings together the essentials of semi-permanent routine.
To answer the questions raised by the many recent publications on potential dangers associated with semi-permanents, it seemed important to explain all this in detail and remind you of our commitments daily to develop quality products without compromise for your health!
Our consumers talk about it better than we do!!
Finally, if there was still something to share with you on this subject, it would of course be the confidence that many consumers and professionals in France and around the world, especially those who have already developed allergies to certain seedlings... and it is they who are still involved in this issue. You will best discuss our products.
- Laurie E.
- Elise B.
- Marine F.
Learn more about the risks of methyl acrylates:
Read the Opinion of the Anses
Read the INRS article
Read the BBC article
Consult European regulations
